No Place Like Home

A recent trip to Alberta made me realize how much I love Manitoba, and how much my home area of the province (Red River North) has to offer.

Don’t get me wrong! “Wild Rose Country” has lots to offer, and I was treated to the greatest time a person could ask for: Food, Fun, and typical Western Hospitality.

But I found money, speed, and excitement seem to be uppermost in so many people’s minds. And discussions about politics, rights and responsibilities, and anything east are potential minefields.

But I suppose the biggest difference I noticed was the landscape. I saw some beautiful country, but the only lake I came near was Lake Saskatoon, which my friends are fortunate enough to live a few hundred yards from. And we visited friends of theirs at their cabin on the Wapiti River. Other than that, not much in the way of waterways.

Maybe readers may be tired of my saying it, but I feel we are so fortunate to be living in “The Land of 100,000 Lakes”. Surface water covers approximately 16% of the province. And here in RRN we live next to the third largest inland body of fresh water contained entirely in Canada – Lake Winnipeg. The remnant of the prehistoric Lake Agassiz, Lake Winnipeg is fed by over 60 tributaries, making its drainage about 40 times larger than its surface, a ratio bigger than any other lake in the world.  It was the abundance of connecting, or closely neighbouring waterways, that led to the early fur traders, (particularly the Hudson’s Bay Company) exploring and setting up so many trading posts (and forts) in this province.

 This was the gateway to the west and northwest. From Henry Hudson in the north part of our province in 1610, to the building of York Factory there in 1684, Fort Dauphin in 1741, and the Red River Settlement in 1812, it was the lakes and rivers in this province that eventually led to Manitoba becoming part of Canada in 1870.

Early settlement all related to the fur trade, and as Manitoba became settled by Europeans, water continued to be important, from the Red River Settlement at The Forks to the growth of the fishing industry. And in the 20th century, the abundance of waterways gave rise to the development of hydroelectricity, both for domestic consumption, and for export.

Here in Red River North, the importance of these waterways cannot be overstated when it comes to the tourism industry. Yes, fishing is still carried on at a commercial level, but it is no exaggeration to say that thousands of visitors from near and far flock here every year (both summer and winter) to fish on Lake Winnipeg, or on the Red River. 

And the large number of beaches whether its Winnipeg Beach, Grand Beach, or the other East Beaches attract thousands of visitors.

In addition, marshes like Netley-Libau Creek and Oak Hammock and their wetlands are huge tourist attractions for birders and hunters alike. 

The other major attraction for me in Red River North is its history and the many historical sights. As the first western province to join the new country of Canada (back in 1870), Manitoba has a rich and colourful history. Major attractions abound, from Lower Fort Garry to 19th century churches like St. Peter Dynevor and St. Clements; there is no shortage of historical sites to see. In fact, Red River North has western Canada’s most significant historic built structures.

Dating back to 1732, the community of Grand Marais (the big marsh) on the eastern side of Lake Winnipeg was originally a Metis settlement for fur traders with the Hudson’s Bay Company who spent their winters there trapping and fishing. During the mid 19th century, it was a fishery used by the Swampy Cree and Metis of the Upper and Lower Settlements. Near the end of the 19th century, it was permanently settled and was one of Manitoba’s first Metis communities, populated by people who fished, trapped and farmed. In 1914 the Canadian Northern Railway built a rail line from Winnipeg to Grand Marais and set up a resort along the “Grand Beach”. 

From the 1920’s to the 1960’s it became the commercial hub of the area, and the Dance Pavilion (1916-1956) was hailed as the largest building in the Commonwealth. Trains carried hundreds of visitors to the Grand Beach-Grand Marais area daily. It was the “action” spot. The increased use of automobiles allowed for exploration of other attractions, but it remains a popular tourist area, and the heart of “The East Beaches”.

The city of Selkirk, the largest center in Red River North, had its beginning in 1813, and is named for Thomas Douglas, the Earl of Selkirk, who obtained the grant to establish a colony in the Red River area. Also known as “The Catfish Capital of the World”, its location on the Red River has been key to its economic development, first with the fur trade, and later with commercial fishing. Today, it is still a huge draw for sport fishing year-round, and for boating. Selkirk’s rich marine history is also on display at The Marine Museum of Manitoba, a collection of historical artifacts from the Lake Winnipeg-Red River area. 

Further south, The St. Andrews Locks at Lockport boast the largest Camere-style dam ever built, and the only one still in existence anywhere in the world. 

And a short distance south of Lockport, Captain Kennedy House is another important historical site. Although entry has been closed to visitors for the past few years, it is still worth a visit, particularly when Red River North Tourism offers guided tours of the grounds, with an interesting and informative presentation on Captain Kennedy. The Manitoba government has committed to revitalizing and restoring the building to its former condition, presenting an opportunity to learn about and see the residence of a renowned explore, a founder of the Manitoba Scientific and Historical Society, and a man who helped ensure that the Red River Colony joined Canada in 1870.

William Kennedy was a respected Metis businessperson, merchant, and magistrate, who was a principled man referred to by Anishinaabe Chief Henry Prince as “one of our country’s gentlemen”. Kennedy is buried nearby in the St. Andrews-on-the-Red cemetery.

So, while I certainly enjoyed my brief visit to Alberta, I was very happy to return to “the land of lakes and rivers”. As anyone who lives here, or visits, knows….

We are now in the season, when all have a reason,
To spend time with family and friends.
I wish joy in your home, travel safe if you roam,
And next year, happiness to no end.